Build your own turbo kit for 1100-??????

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Build your own turbo kit for 1100-??????

Post by HankJr » Tue Jul 22, 2003 11:40 pm

Turbo Kits 101

These instructions are designed for an Integra, however, they can be used for a Civic with too! The only difference are the way the pipes connect!

I've made custom turbo kits for a while now. Why waste $500 for Intake and Headers when you can drop down another $500 and make your own CUSTOM TURBO KIT and push a lot more horsepower, plus get the respect from people on the street when you whoop a 4.6 Liter Mustang!

The great thing about building a custom turbo kit is that you can buy the parts peice by peice at a time, rather then buying a whole kit and waste all your money at once and go broke all at once!

Before we start on the installation, please inspect the picture that I've provided. Each part is individually labeled by a number. The picture will also give you a jist of how a turbo system works! I will go through each item one by one to show you how they work. Once you understand how it works, then we will being building our custom turbo kit! And the thing is, all turbo kits mainly consists of just "pipes". If you look at the pic, notice how SIMPLE a turbo kit is! It's mainly just "pipes"!

So next time when you hear someone shedding out $3000-$3500 for a turbokit, laugh at their face because they are throwing money out of their pockets. With the other $2000 that you save, you can use that money to build your motor to handle 16+ PSI on the streets. Or use that money for a new paint job or whatever you wish!

1. This is the wastegate. It is an external one that connects to the turbo manifold. The exhuast gases from the turbo manifold blows into the turbo and keeps on blowing. The turbo keeps on spinning and spinning and you get more and more boost! But you don't want too much boost or else your engine will blow up! (Too much boost = too much power = pistons can't handle this power = goodbye motor! ).

So how do we regulate the turbo so that it does not overspin? We have a wastegate. The wastegate sees how much boost you have in your engine. If you have it set at 7 PSI, when the wastegate sees 7 PSI, it will open up and send the exhaust gases AWAY from the turbo so the turbo does not keep spinning!

Imagine you have a windmill and you blow on it. It will spin and spin and spin. However, if you put a sponge in front of your mouth, the windmill will slow down. Thats exactly what the wastegate does. It slows down the air flow from the exhaust.

2. Turbo manifold/Turbo Header. This is the 2nd most important thing of a turbo system. It collects the exhaust gases from all 4 exhaust ports and reroutes those exhaust gases into one "big port". To explain this a little bit easier, imagine you have four straws. Imagine four people have a straw and they each blow on theirs. And then you put the ends of the straw together, voila! More efficient! Same concept with the turbo manifold.

3. Turbo, the heart of the system. Also known as the "Air Pump". Now that you have those exhaust gases from the exhaust ports, you shoot those exhaust gases into the exhaust turbine, which spins the compressor turbine. To understand the turbo, imagine you had one of those windmills. And you blow on it. The blade spins. Same concept with the turbo, except you have exhuast gases blowing on it. And imagine you connect another windmill to it. If you blow on one windmill, the other windmill will also spin. The one that you blew on, is equivalent to the "exhause turbine" on the turbo. And the one that spins along is equivalent to the "compressor turbine" on the turbo. The compressor turbine sucks in air and compresses it and pumps air out of it down into Pipe #5 (Goto 5. )

The oil needs turbo to lubricate its bearings! Without oil, the turbo will overheat. Imagine you have a bicycle wheel turning at 300 RPMS. The bearings inside will not overheat because the friction from 300 RPMs (Revolutions per minute) is nothing compared to that of a turbo. Turbos run up to 60,000 RPMs. If a bicycle wheel spun that fast, the bearings would overheat from friction and stuff would melt fast! Now imagine you sprayed oil on those bearings while its spinning at 60,000 RPMs. Much better because the heat is carried away by the oil and also the oil lubricates the bearings and causes LESS friction which means LESS heat. Same concept with the turbo. Turbos LIVE on oil!

4. Downpipe. Now that you have the exhuast gases blowing through the exhaust turbine, where does it go? It goes into the exhaust system. And to do that, the downpipe connects to the turbine side and then the other end of the downpipe makes a funny "U" turn and connects to the cat convertor. Easy as that! If you get a bigger downpipe, your turbo will spool up faster. However, if you decide to get a 3 inch downpipe, it will not clear your Air conditioner.

5. Now that the turbo is pushing air/Pumping out air, we need to "capture" this air and send it to the throttle body/intake manifold for the motor to use this pressurized air. To use this useful air, we have to send it through a bunch of pipes! This is a pipe and the air goes down, then connects to pipe #6.

6. Pipe #6 is a U bend, it makes a U bend and then connects to the intercooler (#7)

7. When you compress air, it gets HOT! If you don't believe me, have you ever touched an air pump after you pump your tires? Most of that heat is from the compressed air. And the other is from friction.

So how do we cool this hot air? We send it through the intercooler, the radiator looking thing! Intercoolers work almost like radiators except you send air through it. With the intercooler, it will cool the air a LOT.

8. Now, after the air leaves the intercooler, it goes into pipe #8 and makes a U bend, the goes into pipe #9.

9. The air from pipe #8 now enters this pipe and then the air goes into the intake manifold for your engine to use this useful compressed air.

10. The blow off valve. This is the device that gives you the nice "PsssssssHHH!" sound when you let go of the gas while under boost. Not just that, it lets your turbo live longer. Why is that? Imagine you had a peice of straw. And pretend that you are a turbocharger. Blow through the pipe. Easy right? Now imagine you cover the end of it. It is very hard to blow right? By covering the end of the peice of straw, that is EXACTLY like closing the throttle plate on the throttle body. Because when you let go of the gas, the throttle plate closes.

Now, imagine you had a mini blow off valve on the straw. So that everytime you put your finger/cover the end of the straw, the blow off valve opens. So the air goes through there. Now it's easier for you to blow! And since its easier, that must mean its easier on the turbocharger! Which means longer lasting turbo!

11. FMU. FMU stands for Fuel Management Unit. You will definetly need this because it adds more fuel into your cylinders when you boost. If you force more air into the cylinders via a turbo, you must add more fuel! And how do we add more fuel? There are a couple of methods. We can make the injectors shoot in more or we can increase the fuel pressure. For now, lets ignore the first method. And focus on the second method because that's what we will be using!

All B series motors are fuel injected and use a fuel rail. The fuel rail is always under pressure so that when the injectors open, the fuel shoots into the cylinders! What we can do is, increase the pressure so that it shoots more fuel into the cylinders. To make it easier to understand, imagine you had a water hose with nothing attached to the end of it. Now, imagine you squeeze the end of it, more water shoots out! Thats because you increased the pressure.

The FMU does the same thing! It "squeezes" the fuel lines to increase fuel pressure.

Without an FMU, your motor will blow up for sure! All FMUs have ratings, such as 12:1 or 8:1. What that means is, if its a 12:1, it will raise fuel pressure 12 PSI per 1 PSI of boost. So if you boost 7 PSI, then it will raise the fuel pressure to 7 X 12 = 84 PSI. When the fuel pressure is raised, more fuel is added into the cylinders. Easy concept.

Now you get how a turbo system works right? Lets review.

1. Exhaust gases from the turbo is blown into the turbo.
2. The turbo is like a pump, it uses the exhaust gases (free energy) to pump air.
3. This pumped air is then blown into some pipes that connect to the intake manifold which forces the air into the cylinders.
4. This pumped air from the turbo is HOT, so we use an intercooler to cool down this air slighty before it enters the engine.
5. The blow off valve is used to relieve pressure from the turbo when you let go of the throttle when under boost.

Ok, one more thing! Lets look at another "turbo kit" picture:

All the parts that I crossed out, you do not need! Also, notice how SIMPLE a turbo kit's mainly just pipes that you can buy from your Auto store or Home depot! So now you know what a turbo kit really's really just pipes and a big fat hairy turbo!

1. Downpipe
2. Turbo Manifold
3. Turbo
4. Silicone hoses/Clamps
5. Intercooler
6. Various Pipes
7. Oil line for turbo and various fittings for check valves, oil return etc...
8. Blow off valve
9. Wastegate

Now, check out this picture, which is a zoom up of a manifold, turbo and wastegate:

1. A Beautiful Tial Wastegate
2. Turbo Manifold
3. Big Hairy T3/T4 Turbo!

Now that you understand how a turbo system works, lets build our custom turbo kit! Below are the parts that you will need to build a typical turbo kit for a B series motor for an Integra. However, this will also work with Si's, Preludes, CRV's, Civics with some slight modifications of the turbo pipes! slight modifications = cutting with a saw. How hard is it to cut? hehe.

Parts List
The prices in the brackets are average costs for the item:

Item #2 - [$200] B Series Turbo Manifold:

Any B series turbo manifold. Perferably from a Drag or Revhard kit (So you can retain your air conditioning system). There are some people on that sell these for around $200-$300 used! I've seen some custom ones on there for $600! However, for our project, lets just use a turbo manifold from a Drag or Revhard kit. If you are lucky, you can pick up a used one locally from someone for $250 or so.

Item #3 - [$150] Turbocharger

A T3 turbo (Garett or Airesearch) from a Ford or Volvo or Saab. These sell for around $150-$200 on Ebay! Or if you want the real power, find a T3/T4 Hybrid turbo but those go for around $450 brand new from Turbonetics! But for a street setup, a T3 is better because you get better throttle response (Less turbo lag). I've had experience with both types, the T3 is my favorite! Also for our setup, make sure you get the 5 bolt pattern for the downpipe! Before you buy the item, ask the person if its the 5 bolt pattern! Most T3 and T3/T4s are 5 bolt patterns so you will not have any trouble looking for one!

Item #4 - [$100] Downpipe

A downpipe from a Drag or Revhard kit. The downpipe will bolt straight up to any T3 or T3/T4 turbo! My friend bought one for $100 with flange welded! Some guy wanted to sell his for $60! Or you can get a custom one made for $250. You may need to modify the downpipe slightly. And to do that, just buy a 2.5 inch flex pipe and 2 exhaust clamps.

Item #11 - [$80] FMU (Vortech, Cartech, Etc...)

My friend bought a BRAND spanking new one for $80 from However, you can buy a new one for $120-$150 from Vortech directly at

Item #1 - [$100] Wastegate

Ebay. Thepartstrader. My friend got a Turbonetics Deltawastegate for $100 brand spanking new! If you use the Drag or Revhard manifold, a Turbonetics, Tial, or HKS will fit the manifold.

Item #5, 6, 8, 9 - [$70] Charge Pipes

Where to get:

If you have a cold air intake, keep it! Because you will save yourself a LOT of money. You will not need Pipe #9 if you have a cold air intake!

However, if you do not have a cold air intake you will need all 4 pipes from them. Here are the parts # that you will need!

Pipe #8 & #6: (You will need to order two of these) 81ZX3031U 180 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=12", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 13.95

Pipe #5: 81ZX2953P 90 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=10", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 9.95

Pipe #9: 81ZX3035N 180 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=24", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 22.95

- [$50] Oil feed / Return line

Reason: Turbochargers need oil because they spin at an incredible rate. The oil cools down the bearings inside the turbo. This is a must.

For the oil line, you can purchase one from Summit racing. Its the stainless steel one for $39.99. This is the line that connects from the back of the block and runs to the turbo.

Now that the oil is running through the turbo to cool down the bearings, you will need to return it back to the oil pan!

For that, you will need to goto Home Depot. They have a copper barbed fitting ( 1/2 Inch ) which looks like this but with a BIGGER nipple!:

- [$30] Silicone Hoses

Reason: Silicone hoses to connect all the pipes together! Or you can get the pipes welded together, but that is an expensive route.

Where to get: Home Depot in the Plumbing section, they sell the black rubber silicone hoses. Before you buy the silicone hoses, make sure all the pipes connect from the turbo the throttle body with no problems. If so, then all you need to do is look for the correct hoses! Hoses may vary depending on the size of the turbo outlet port size and/or intercooler port sizes. On average, they are 2 inch.

If you already have a cold air intake, you will only need SEVEN 2 inch silicone hoses. However, if you do not have a cold air intake, you will need NINE 2 inch silicone hoses.

- [$10] MAP Sensor by pass valve

Reason: You will need this to bypass air from the MAP sensor. If the MAP sensor sees boost, it will throw a check engine light code! You can invest in a missing map link for $50. But with this trick that I provide, you will only invest $10 for a homemade sensor by pass.

Where to get: Local fish store. Three brass/plastic "T"s. Three Check valves (Ask anyone in the store, they will show you where this is located at). On average, the Brass "T"'s are $1 each. And the check valves are around $2 each.

- [$5] 15 Feet of Vacuum lines

Reason: You will need these for the blow off valve, FMU, wastegate, and check valves.

Total cost of project: Around $800 with no blow off valve or intercooler. However, this is an average cost. Also you can find a nice used Blow off valve for $100 and a nice used Intercooler for $200, bringing the price to around $1100. My friend picked up an intercooler for $125. The final price of the turbo system all depends on where you look and if you have patience, you can build a whole system for less then $1000 if you know where to look!

Optional items:

-[$100] Blow off Valve

Reason: A Blow off Valve is not necessary but RECOMMENDED. Plus you get the cool "wooooshh" or "pshhhh" sound. The Blow off Valve releases pressure from the turbo when you let go of the throttle. The air has nowhere else to go but back into the turbo. But with a Blow off Valve, the air gets vented into the atmosphere.

Where to get: Ebay or My friend bought his Greddy Type S used for $100 with flange.

-[$300] Intercooler

Reason: Intercoolers are used to reduce the heat caused by compressed air. If you compress air, you create heat. When the hot air goes through the intercooler, it greatly reduces intake temperatures, thus more power!

Where to get: Ebay or I've seen these go for as little as $200 if you know where to look!

First, we need to install a device called "Check valves" to trick the MAP sensor! The MAP sensor reads atmospheric pressure in the intake manifold. If it sees boost, it will send it to the ECU and the ECU will throw a check engine light! Stock ECU does not like boost! It was never programmed to see boost.

So, to trick it, we will use a system called "Check Valves". All it does is, it bleeds off boost from the MAP sensor. If you have a check valve in your hand, try blowing through it, it blows through easily! Now try sucking on it, air will not suck in! So when your car is boosting, the air will go through these valves into the atmosphere and trick the MAP sensor.

To remove the MAP sensor first locate it. It is RIGHT on top of the throttle body. If you can't find it, ask someone or get a Honda manual. It has two screws. Unscrew it and pull it off from the throttle body.

Construct the MAP sensor check valve system just like in the picture. Now, the end with "T", hammer that into the hole thats on the throttle body where you removed the MAP sensor. The other end, connect it to the MAP sensor nipple. You can zip tie the MAP sensor or just let it hang. But if you have some money laying around, you can buy a MISSING MAP LINK. They cost $65 on average and work just like the check valves but give the car a more CLEANER look. However, they are costly.

First, find a place to position the FMU. You can mount it on the firewall. Use a drill bit and drill 2 holes and screw it to the firewall.

The FMU is quite simple. The top part of it, connect it to a vacuum source. One good vacuum source is from the stock fuel pressure regulator (Which is outlined in GREEN) Cut the vacuum line coming off of that in half. Then connect a brass or plastic "T" to it. Now connect a vacuum hose to that and connect the other end of it to the top of the FMU. The side port on the FMU is the "inlet" and the bottom port is the "outlet".

You will notice a rubber fuel line coming out from the stock fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Now, before we disconnect this line, we need to relieve gas pressure from the system. Open up the gas cap. Now, you will need to buy new fuel lines. They don't cost that much anyways. Probably like $5. You will need 6 feet of it, 3/18.

Remove the rubber fuel line from the stock fuel pressure regulator and the other end of it will go down and connect to a niple thing that goes back into the fuel tank. Pull off the other end of it. Now, with the new fuel line, cut it in half (3 feet). Connect one end of it to the stock fuel pressure regulator and the other end to the SIDE port (inlet) port of the FMU. This new line is outlined in BLUE in the picture!

Then with the other 3 feet of fuel line (Outlined in RED), connect one end to the BOTTOM port (outlet) of the FMU and connect the other end to that nipple all the way down there, where you removed the old one! Easy as that!

Clamp the lines and make sure they are tight. Turn the car on and make sure there are no fuel leaks. If there are, make sure the lines are clamped tight!

Now, if you decide to use an intercooler with your setup, we have to start off with the intercooler first! Now, you will need to find an intercooler that will fit underneath the bumper beam and clear the ground. And make sure the "in" and "out" ports on the intercooler are on the SIDES! Not on the top or bottom. Spearco, Greddy, Apexi' all make intercoolers that use side ports.

Once you have the intercooler, place it underneath the bumper beam. Now you will have to figure out how to keep it there so it doesn't move. The EASIEST method would be to take it to a welding shop and just let them weld the top part of the intercooler to the bumper beam.

However, if you do not want to do that, then buy two L brackets from your local Home Depot. About 2 inch long. Then get it welded to the side of the intercooler. Then the top part of the L bracket, drill a hole and screw it to the bottom part of the bumper beam.

Some intercoolers have lips on the side of the intercooler to bolt to the bumper beam. So you just drill holes on the bumper beam and bolt the intercooler on with 2 bolts/nuts.

Now that you have all the items, lets start off by removing the exhaust manifold / headers. It is 9 nuts. You will need a 14 mm socket and if possible, a big socket wrench. The bigger (Longer), the better! Because you will need to use less force with a big socket wrench. You may need to spray some WD-40 on them to loosen them. From the bottom, disconnect the exhause manifold / header flange from the catalyic convertor. It is only 2 bolts. You may need to spray some WD-40 on them to loosen them. Also, disconnect the O2 sensor! You will need a big wrench to loosen it. If it does not come off, disconnect the harness and remove it later with the exhaust manifold / headers is OFF the car.

Now try to pull the exhaust manifold out from the BOTTOM. If it does not move, then there are probably two bolts somewhere holding the exhaust manifold to the block. Loosen those and then pull out the whole manifold.

Now that is off, the next step, you will need to REMOVE the oil pan to tap that oil return brass that you bought from Home Depot! First, drain the oil!

Then you may remove the oil pan. To do this, you will need a 12 inch socket and a LOT of patience because there are 19 nuts/bolts that hold the oil pan to the block. Also, on one side of the oil pan, there are probably 2 or 3 bolts that are blocked. To get to those, you will need to remove the Flywheel cover. It is approximately 4-5 bolts. Two 17 mm and Three 14 mm I believe.

Now, if the oil pan does not come out, just tap on it slightly with a rubber malet or with your palm. It should come off with ease. Now clean it out with degreaser or the like. Use dishwashing soap and keep spraying water. It may take a while to clean it. Then rub it clean with paper towels. Now, you will need to get some drill bits. For the oil return line, try to keep it as HIGH up on the oil pan as possible! And drill the hole on the opposite side of the drain plug. Remember, keep it HIGH as possible! Start with the smallest drill bit and drill.

The hole should look like this:

Then try to screw the barbed return fitting. Keep widening the hole until you have a snug fit. The inside of the oil pan should look like this with the Home depot oil return fitting:

Once it is snug, get out the JB weld. Use some JB weld around the return fitting. Make sure it looks leak free. Then once your done, get some black high temp spray paint and spray the return fitting so it looks OEM. Clean all the metal shavings out from the oil pan and then if you want reclean it again with soap. If the oil pan gasket looks fairly new, you can reuse it. However, when in doubt, buy a new one! They are $30 at the Honda/Acura dealership. Bolt it back on. Installation is reverse of removal!

Next, we will prep the oil line for the turbo. To do this, look next to the OIL FILTER. On the left side of the oil filter, you will see an oil sensor which has some sort of rubber boot on it. Disconnect the wire, or just cut it off if your lazy (You can solder it back or tape it back later). Then, using a 23 mm DEEP SOCKET, remove that oil sensor. You will see oil come out slightly. This is how your turbo will get its oil!!

Using the stainless steel oil line that you bought from Summit racing, connect it to the hole. The other end will later connect to the turbo unit.

Now once all that is done, here is the FUN part. With the nice T3 turbo in hand, connect it (Screw it on) to the Revhard / Drag turbo manifold. There are approximately 4 bolts. Next, connect the downpipe to the turbo. Bolt down the wastegate to the turbo manifold.

Now, with the help of a friend, raise the whole big ass unit up from BENEATH and connect the manifold to the exhaust ports. Put the nuts on but do not tighten them yet. Also, you can reuse the exhaust manifold metal gasket. But if in doubt, replace it. Its only $20.

Align the downpipe so that it connects the Catalyic convertor. If it does not fit, you will need to modify the downpipe slighty. Buy a 2.5 inch flex pipe and two exhaust clamps. Cut the downpipe anywhere and cut off about 5 inches or so. You will need to use your imagination! The flex pipe will alow for the downpipe end to move around so you can connect to the cat convertor flange.

If your downpipe does NOT have a flange to connect to the Cat convertors flange, get one welded on. They are around $10.

Also, make sure the compressor side faces straight downward. If it doesn't, you will need to rotate it. To rotate it, loosen the bolts on the turbo's compressor side. Do not remove. Now rotate it and tighten the bolts down once its pointing straight down. Make sure the oil return is facing STRAIGHT down! You will need to clock/rotate the turbo. Just loosen the bolts and mess around with it until both oil return and compressir side's port is facing straight down.

The next step requires some creativity. Connecting the pipes. Lets start off with pipes 9 and 8. For #9, if you already have an intake, skip all this info. If you don't read this. For pipe #9, we will contruct it from

81ZX3035N 180 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=24", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 22.95

This will require some creativity. It requires eyeballing it. Here are some tips below:

Rearrange those peices around to get something like this! And connect the peices together using the Silicone hoses from Home Depot from the Plumbing section. The 2 Inch ones.

Tada...there you have pipe #9, easy wasn't it?

For pipe #8:

Use this for pipe #8: 81ZX3031U 180 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=12", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 13.95

Connect one end to pipe #9 and the other end to the intercooler. If it does not fit properly, cut RIGHT in the middle of the U pipe and shorten or extend it using a silicone hose! Just some creativity required!

Now, using Pipe #5:

81ZX2953P 90 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=10", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 9.95

Cut off about 2 inches off from either end of the pipe. Then the end that you just cut off, connect it to the turbo! Use a silicone hose and tighten. Now you see how it all fits together right?

Connect one end of pipe #6 to the end of pipe #5 and the other end to the intercooler. If it does not fit properly, you will have to cut pipe #6 in half and modify it slightly so it will fit. This requires creativity! Pipe #6 and Pipe #8 are basically the EXACT same thing except on the opposite sides!

Now, you have all the pipes connected etc. Tighten down everything, from the turbo manifold to the pipes.

connect one of the high temp rubber oil line with 1/2 inch inner diameter to the oil outlet on the turbo and the other end of the pipe to the oil pan. Use metal clamps to clamp the hoses tight. Then, connect the stainless steel oil line to the turbo's oil inlet.

Pour motor oil into the engine. Before we start up the car, we need to purge the oil line so that there is oil in the turbo before we run the car! To do this, pull out all 4 spark plug wires. Then crank the motor for 5 seconds. Then stop. Then repeat that 4 times. Now, there should be oil in the oil line for the turbo and there should be oil for the turbo.

Now, put the spark plug wires back in and crank the motor up! Let the car run for 10 mins to lubricate the turbo. Check for oil leaks or fuel leaks. If you do not see anything for 10 mins, then you are ready to test drive! Do not boost yet. You will need to use at LEAST 92 octane or you will risk detonation.

To test drive it, look for an empty road. Shift at 3k RPM from 1st to 2nd to 3rd. While in 3rd gear, give it some gas (60% throttle). Look at your boost gauge. And listen to the engine. If you do not hear anything funny then give it some gas and watch the boost gauge! Make sure it does not overboost. Listen to the engine and make sure you dont hear any knocking sounds. If you hear knocking sounds, let go of the gas. Decrease the boost! If the boost stays steady at the boost setting you have it at, then you are good to go! Now, try it in 4th etc... Then if boost is steady in 3rd and 4th, try it in 1st and 2nd.

Optional item:

For the blow off valve, you can either get it welded or JB weld it yourself (Ghetto weld). JB Weld does wonders, i've seen it on my friends car, it looks PERFECT. For this part, cut a hole that is about the size of the BOV's flange. The BOV should be 1 - 2 feet away from the throttle body. Once you get the flange to fit, you can JB weld it (epoxy type glue) or if its WELDABLE, then get it welded. It may cost $10-$90 depending on where you go!

For the BOV to connect, just connect a vacuum line from the BOV to a vacuum source. Thats it! Easy as that!

for pics and more info go to:


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